The blade materials I usually have in stock or available are 440C, ATS 34 (currently replaced by 154CM), 154CM, and S30V.    I have sources for several makers of Damascus in carbon, hi-contrast, mosaic Damascus, stainless Damascus, and powdered stainless Damascus.

Prices quoted as base price include only: 154CM blade, wood grain micarta handles, brass fittings on fixed blade knives and stainless fittings on folding knives.  Heat treating is usually to 59-60 Rc, unless you desire a different hardness (no additional charge).  The higher the Rc number, the harder your blade will be.  Edges are usually ground to approximately .020 for ease in both sharpening and cutting.  An edge will usually retain cutting ability longer if sharpening stops just as it reaches its ability to shave.  The more polished the edge, the more easily that edge is to damage.  I recommend sharpening on a two side India stone, or a fine diamond hone.

The Micarta handles are probably the best ever made for a knife that will see a great deal of use.  It is good enough that I will replace a Micarta handle, should it break under normal use.

Stag, elephant ivory, mastodon ivory, walrus, wart hog, and hippo ivories, along with other natural materials are preferred by many hunters and collectors; however, they are materials that are very subject to climatic changes.  They may swell in higher humidity and shrink in lower humidity, causing the possibility of climatic cracking.  This still does not offset the fact that these materials make absolutely beautiful handles that are usable and much sought after, as history has shown over hundreds of years.  With age, most ivory will develop small cracking that is characteristic of this material.  This gives "character" to the piece and does not affect its usability or value.  Many natural woods are available, with high figure, that have gone through the stabilizing process.  This, in short, involves injecting plastics and polymers in a liquid state into the wood, and allowing it to cure, thereby creating a very durable and usable material that resists warping and cracking.  Most of these materials are available at very little more cost above the base price.

My knives are guaranteed, at my option, against defects in material and workmanship, excluding abuse (to include opening cans, use as a pry bar, and being hammered on the back or butt end for whatever reason).  They are designed to be a cutting instrument and will last most people a lifetime with minimal cleaning and care.  All the modern stainless steels have enough carbon in them to produce a little rust, whether my knives or those of my fellow knife makers.  They should be washed when you finish cleaning your kill and a very light oil upon storage would not hurt.  Ivory handles do well with a light coat of mineral oil, if not scrimshawed.  A light coat of a good colorless past wax works well on scrimshawed handles, as do all other handles.  If not coated with oil, paste wax works well on blades, too.  I do include a certificate of authenticity in regards to work performed and materials used on my knives.